Sunday, August 26, 2012

Our new neighborhood

Paris' 13th arrondissement was cobbled together from a couple of suburbs and pieces of the 12th in 1860. Its history follows that of urbanization: from leather tanning and tapestry weaving along the banks of the Bievre river to  tapestry weaving of the Gobelins, almost any kind of manufacturing could be found here. There was even a chocolate factory! Consequently; the population were members of the working class - a long way from the bourgeosie of the 16th. Anecdotally, when it came time to number the outlying arrondissements, the most bourgeois of districts rejected the proposed number of 13 due to the popular saying " Ils se sont mariés à la mairie du 13e ", (they were married at the Mayor's office in the 13th, meaning a couple would live together outside of mariage, and thus outside of what "polite" society would accept.) Thus the smooth numbering of the districts was interrupted!

Here is a typical  house from the turn of the last century. It is possible that this belonged to a cheminot (train worker.)


 Buildings are, for the most part, relatively low profile, but along the major streets, Baron Haussmann has left his trace, as he has on most of the boulevards in Paris.





100 meters from the house is the Parc Montsouris. This will be a welcome respite from the horrendous pollution that plagues Paris today.


There are many, many cafes in the area: one of the nicest is just around the corner on La Butte aux Cailles. If I were a millionaire, I might want to buy in this neighborhood: For now, we'll just enjoy visiting. 



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